Cinque Terre

This feels very pressurised as there is no wifi so am paying per half hour! Anyway, spent yesterday in train from Nice - Monaco - Ventemiglia - Riomaggiore. The first French bit was stunning, although the train was pretty old and noisy. Then for some reason once we hit Ventemiglia lots of really rude noisy Italian children started getting on and also some really smelly guys trying to avoid the ticket controller. Also we spent most of the time in tunnels so couldn't enjoy the scenery any more. Anyway we duly arrived in Riomaggiore in the evening and took the hike up to our room which is fine and even has a balcony. The area is just like in the pictures - the beautiful colours and little villages on the hills and in the bays. But unfortunately it is absolutely PACKED with tourists. Today has been rainy but we walked between Monterosso and Vernazzo which was still lovely even in the rain with the steep, muddy paths and pretty heavy pedestrian traffic. After 2 hours of that we were drenched so stopped for ravioli and beers and coffee and then home for siesta.
Can't seem to do photos from here so will try another time.

Well it is another time now and I have just written another paragraph which the nasty Italian internet lost!! This country is very different from France in lots of ways. To get internet you have to present your passport and then pay through the nose as well. Actually this hotel tells me it is free since I am staying here but it just seems a very different attitude to tourists. Apparently they are very scared of terrorists! But not the French? Anyway, I will have to be brief now as somehow it is not the same writing something for a second time. I am not really sure how to describe our experience in Cinque Terre - it is absolutely beautiful but after 3 nights there we had had enough. The weather was grey and drizzly most of the time which didn't help, but today was lovely so we were planning to walk the paths we hadn't been able to do in the rain. But we soon gathered that they had closed the paths due to bad weather and it didn't look like they were going to open them again. So there were even more tourists milling about everywhere and there is only so much admiring the view that one can do. So we packed up this morning and embarked on another million trains to get to San Gimignano. Our spirits lifted as we got closer as the scenery is stunning and it is nice to be in this sort of countryside again. The hotel is right in the village and is lovely. So we dropped our bags and collapsed outside for a beer and a delicious thing which I think was a foccacia. We have 2 nights here and then start our 4 day walk to Siena. Hope this weather lasts.
I have given up on photos - maybe in Rome??

1st rainy day - looking back to Monterosso

coming in to Vernazza after about 2 hours walking in the rain

Vernazza

last word from bode

Just a quickie from a "wannabe wilmot sister"....
As the designated driver I managed to achieve two near impossible feats which left the party near speechless ( ok thats a little of the poetic licence but it was very funny)
Driving through the incredibly narrow cycle track like lanes has been challenging to say the least but I was able to wedge the hire car between 2 buildings!! It took much manoeuvering, pulling in the side mirrors and backwards and forwards a few times before we were free.
I am also ashamed to admit that I was overtaken by a bicycle .
The trip has been very good and hats off to Rob for being one of the girls!
Jenny, for the food police, I have a question for you once you see the photos and Doug we are forever in your debt for your kind words!
Love
bode

Nice

We have only had 2 nights in Nice which has been very short. We left Vence after breakfast and very soon found ourselves on the outskirts of Nice but then things got more difficult. All roads seemed to lead to the airport so that is where we went and found we could just drop our car off there. We had plans of catching a taxi to our hotel but it turned out we were too snoep and opted for the cheaper alternative of bus. It was wonderfully easy as it just drove straight along the Promenade and we jumped off about 2 or 3 hundred metres from the Nice Garden Hotel which has been perfect. We have all been surprised to really like Nice. We went down to the beach and Rob and I went for a swim which was an amazing ordeal. The pebbly beach made getting into the water enormously uncomfortable. But then getting out - I just got the giggles as I had to climb out on all fours up this steep bank and then I got Dinny to throw me some shoes and I collapsed at the top of the bank exhausted. So no more swims although beautiful warm weather. We did a bit of shopping and wandering around the old city and the inevitable eating and drinking, all of which was great.
Tomorrow Dinny sets off at 5am and then the rest of us at more civilised hours.

Nice beach in evening

On promenade

On promenade facing other way

Montfort to the coast

Well - not so much blogging from Montfort as it turned out, but it was a great week and very different from Aix. Having a car changed things a lot - not as relaxing as just walking but great to see the surrounding countryside and villages and great not to have to negotiate the buses. We popped in at the local Tabac on our last night for a drink which was quite interesting - we didn't really look like locals. Anyway Saturday was my birthday so we started with a delicious omelette (courtesy of Bode) with fresh baguette and coffee. Then we set out on our big drive. The weather was stunning and the drive started off quite pleasantly, through the vineyards and olive groves, and only one wrong turn. Then we hit some amazing gorges and narrow roads. I think it was one of my most scary experiences - I couldn't look out of my window at the amazing scenery and poor Rob was sweating I think trying to keep all 4 wheels on the road while the French drivers came hurtling down on the wrong side of the road and the cyclists had full faith they were quite safe sharing the road with us all. I have a sore shoulder now, I think from trying to hang on to my seat. Anyway, we made it over the top and almost to St Tropez which was supposed to be our first stop for coffee. But after an hour of crawling along in the traffic we gave up about a km out and headed for a little pink cafe on the beach which was great (except for the standing block toilets). Then the drive all along that coast was magnificent. It would have been great to have been cycling along there. We stopped for lunch in St Raphael amongst all the big yachts and I managed to squeeze in another Creme Brulee for my birthday. Then we carried on along the coast to Cannes and then inland to Vence It was a long day for the drivers but spectacular scenery.
Vence is amazing too - we had dinner in a creperie in the the old city and then today went to St Paul de Vence this morning and the Maeght foundation and then to Grasse this afternoon. All wonderful and maybe some more details from the others.
Tomorrow we have to return the car in Nice and then 2 nights there before Dinny leaves for S.A. and Bode for Copenhagen.

Rob with St Tropez coastline in background (sort of)

Pink cafe on beach

52nd birthday lunch at St Raphael

Birthday dinner in Vence

Bode - St Paul de Vence

Lunch St Paul de Vence

Montfort-sur-Argens

From Dinny - We have seen a lot of Provence today - much more than we intended,due to unexpected road works, difficulty in establishing north and south and people who get carsick when they read maps. But we had a magnificent visit to  Les Gorges du Verdon - spectacular scenery and a festive lunch at the lac (apparently Jenni mustn't know that we had pizza). We still have no accommodation for the 2 nights after here so not sure where we will stay. Our routes are unpredictable anyway. Montfort is a great place, our high tech accommodation in contrast to the  ancient village and castle.
Jill will put on some photos I hope, mostly of us eating.

Sightseeing at the lake

Aiguines

The River at the bottom of the Gorge

Dinny and Rob overlooking le Lac de Ste Croix

The 4 of us at the Gorge

Rob's last cycling addition

We have had our last days riding in the Pyrennes. For those thinking of accepting the challenge I can recommend a great place to stay just outside Massat " les Deux Velos " where Mark and Elma will look after you fabulously. Great friendly atmosphere, breakfasts and dinners and expert advise of the many rides.   Have conquered two more Cols (d'Agnes and Peguere). On both days the weather was stunning looking over the numerous peaks , some with a little snow showing. d'Agnes was long and reasonably challenging with a very long downward run. Richard and I enjoyed the quick descent racing each other to our lunchspot " Seix" to meet Celia. Todays col "Peguere" was unbelievably hard. I was determined not to get off my bike - I was in my bottom gear grinding up at 6kmh for over 3.5 kilometers. I will add this to my " Bucket List " as I don't think I will be repeating the experience. Cycled down to Foix for an enjoyable lunch under the Castle before heading to our last night with Di and Rob Garnett ( much appreciated).

I don't know exactly how many kilometers we have ridden but it must be near 1000km by now. I would recommend this to everyone vaguely interested in cycling but suggest you do a little training beforehand. Thanks Richard for making this all happen. Richard ours and Celia and Jills company over the duration has been awesome. Now for the next stage of our journey - I catch a train tomorrow to meet up with Jill in Monforte.

Les Deux Velos outside Massat

Top of col  (Peguere) with Mark and Bas from Les Deux Velos

From top of Peguere

Same

Aix to Montfort

We had to leave our house in Aix which is always sad. So we started the day with the obligatory pastries - last chance for the visit to Bechard. Then there was the cleaning and packing and then we were collected by a very speedy but friendly taxi driver to take us to our car at the TGV station. We soon discovered that our trip was only about an hour at most from Aix. But then we realised that we were having none of that as we were travelling in completely the opposite direction - Bode was handling the wrong side of the road but I think the sun coming from the South was too much for us. Anyway, we found a great little place in Trets for a Tapas lunch with Spanish beers. We were their only guests so they presented us with some dreadfully strong liqueur afterwards which kept us going to Montfort.

This is a tiny little charming village on the side of a hill with one of everything. The house is on 3 levels (one bedroom on each) and a nice sunny spot outside the kitchen where we sit if we can fit anything more into our tummies. My bedroom is on the top floor overlooking the castle wall. We have been on a couple of exploratory drives through some of the other villages and find ourselves quite often in Cotignac which is beautiful. We had an emergency breakfast there this morning when we found the boulanger doesn't open on a Monday in Montfort. In fact most of France appears not to open on a Monday. Bode braved the little narrow winding roads through Entrecasteux and Aups and some stunning scenery. We even managed quite a long walk last night, through vineyards and olive groves, picking figs and berries on the way, so rewarded ourselves with a dinner at the local restaurant called Marmite

our house in Montfort

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Breakfast in Cotignac

Breakfast in cotignac

walking in the coutryside above Montfort sur Argens

Cotignac shop window

The rocks and caves behind Cotignac where the Troglodytes used to live apparently

Richards Addition

I don't want this Aussie blog to be taken over by a south african but it seems to have some SA readers who keep asking questions, like Chris who sent an sms at 11pm last night wanting to know why nobody was going for the pink jersey. Well I know you are colour blind but even so you should know there is no pink jersey in the tour de France. Or perhaps your geography is at fault, there is a maglia rosa in the Giro.
Anyway here is my version of the last few days.
After 4 rest days Celia lead the peloton out of Pierrefitte at 27kmh and we roared into Lourdes where we blogged and then had to climb the first of the hills on our journey east along the foothills of the pyrenees. Our first town was Bagneres de Bigorre but it was only lunch time so we decided to continue only to be immediately confronted with the 2nd hill of the day. These hills are not so long but are still hard work with full panniers. This was followed by a lovely long descent and we flew along to the base of a 3rd climb where there was a small auberge. Rob went in to ask directions to the next town (Lannemezan),and I had to work hard to persuade him that cold beer and wine and a bed in a beautiful country setting was better than attacking another big climb just then. It was awonderful place (30euros a room Alec) and Rob met a very nice New Zealander from Rotorua to whom he chatted for a long time.
Next morning C set off ahead of us because she struggles on the hills. When we eventually caught up with her at the top I could see from her face it was going to be a difficult day for me. I suggested she change into a lower gear only to be told abruptly that she was already in her lowest gear. I then noticed she had done the whole climb in her middle chain ring. She eventually saw the funny side of it but had hurt her knee in the process. The rest of the day was wonderful undulating cycling with lovely scenery to Salies du Salat. Then the next day all along the river to this place near Massat.

Celia making it to the top

Friday in Aix

Today was our last day here and the only slightly miserable, grey day. We seem to have spent a lot of our time trying to organise some outings out of Aix which we have managed on two occasions. The first was to Puylubiere which came about when we told the tourist chap that the tours were too expensive. He was very pleased to offer us this option for only one euro. It sounded perfect but it was a really weird experience. It was hot and dry and very closed over lunch time so we wandered around and admired Mont Sainte Victoire , and then settled down on a bench to wait for our return bus. We could all see quite a marked similarity to Graaff Reinett. We were very pleased to arrive back in Aix which has been lovely. I think we did a bit more shopping (some bits of material for my quilt) and had a drink on the Cours Mirabeau, then Bode cooked delicious gnocci for dinner. The night before we went to a great little place called the Bistro Latin where we ate duck again and creme brulee.

Puylubiere with a bit of the mountain behind

Today we were out all day as we caught the bus to Arles and St Remy. Arles was pretty ordinary and I thought Dinny was going to throw up when she tasted her coffee. But St Remy was a beautiful village. We took heaps of photos but they seem to be mostly of the quaint streets and gorgeous colours of provence - mainly walls and shutters - so maybe I won't include all those. John would have loved the Roman ruins in Arles where they still hold the bull fights.

Bode and Dinny in Arles with Rhone in background (where van Gogh painted Starry Night apparently)

Arles

One of the many photos of shutters in St Remy

Poor Rob had a bad day worrying about his Dad who is in hospital with an infection. Hope all is going well there.

Dinny and Bode don't look interested in having turns tonight so I had better just go and pack my bag and get ready for the drive to Montfort tomorrow. (I think it is very close but we are not sure what we will find when we get there.)

Robs Addition

Well, we are 3 days further into our adventure. The weather has taken a turn for the worse with heavy cloud and constant scottish mist , however the riding experience is just great. It gives one another prospective of life in country France with all the soft colours, massive amounts of running water , quiet streets , old buildings , narrow lane ways in farming communities. I didn't appreciate how beautiful the French countryside is !

We have stayed in some very quaint hotels , where the food has been pleasantly good , though sometimes served up in what looks like the dogs bowl. The beds , bathrooms and pillows all vary greatly and there isn't a huge amount of privacy with paper thin walls. They all have power saving lights , so the passageways are often pitch dark. I managed to set off the Fire Alarm one evening whilst trying to find light switch. Not the best way to endear yourself to French owners. No complaints - all parts of the experience. My understanding of the French language and my ability to speak French amounts to a very fat zero.

We never did find out what this place was called

Richard and Celia in the mist (not gorillas)

We have a couple of more Cols to climb before Monday and I think the weather will clear , so looking forward to being rewarded with spectacular views over the Pyrennes.

To Dad back in Tauranga New Zealand , I'm thinking of your always and I hope you are feeling better and will be back at Pillans Rd soon. You are made of tough stuff and a little old infection is not going to get the better of you. Love you - Rob , Jill, Catherine and John

Waiting for Godot

Spot the pastries!

Pyrenees Addition

Richard
Sat 11th Sept
Jill left today but we are expected to continue the blog but have not found internet yet. Celia and I rode up to Pierrefitte today and I found the best hotel ever , elia hated it instantly , we had the biggest room yet with one window overlooking the noisy river that drowned out all unpleasant noises like traffic and C telling me to pack away my clothes. I spent hours lying on one of the 3 beds and even C admitted she had not seen me look as peaceful since leaving the farm . But the building was very old and not too clean and hotel man ( barman , receptionist ,waiter and everything else) was swarthy and only guardedly friendly , think he is a Basque seperatist. Best of all was the price E56 DBB for 2 people. Alec would have been proud of me. Things started to deteriorate when we went down for supper , when I asked for some ice for C's wine , hotel man glared and said what for. I bravely stood my ground and he reluctantly went off and came back with two iceblocks in his hand. The food was plentiful but C said was uneatable. next morning C wouldn't come down for breakfast , so I went down alone and found all the quest milling around in confusion , hotel man hadn't arrived. It was a really strange scene and I went back to fetch C so she could see real French people acting with no concern for tourist. by 9.30 no one had arrived so we went out of a side door to another hotel for coffee , I had to concide defeat and booked 2 rooms there. We found out hotelman was drunk the night before. This place is very clean and friendly and has loud traffic.
12th Sept
The next part is mainly for Alec who asked some technical questions of a competitive nature like which of us is in yellow and who is in the polka dot. Well until Jill left Rob was playing the part super domestique so it was difficult to tell. But on his return from Foix without Jill he rode an individual Time Trail from Lourdes to Pierrefitte with Panniers at 33 kmh which puts him fairly in yellow and he is far to strong to challenge?
13th Sept
However after riding to Col d'Aubisque I think I might have the Polka Dot in the bag except that Rob has a cunning plan to use C's bike on the Tourmalet tomorrow. When we set off up the Aubisque I hoped Rob would make the beginners mistake of starting too fast but he stayed with me for the first km before impatience got the better of him and he started pulling ahead. I thought I wouldn't see him again , but half way up he came into view and soon I was sitting on his wheel. Afterwards I pulled away to the top of the col. It is difficult for a first timer to imagine the length of these climbs. He also the excuse of having a heavy bike with no suitable gear for 8.5 % gradiant. The weather was beautiful and so was the scenery. I hope Rob's photography does it justice. Rob is a demon descender and sitting on his wheel on the descent reminded me of following down a steep ski run. A brillant day cycling.
14th Sept
I have talked Rob out of doing the Tourmalet and going to Gavarnie instead. This kills two birds with one stone. There are no more out of catorgary climbs on the route , so he cannot get enough points to get the Polka Dot jersey off my shoulders and secondly I've always wanted to vist Gavarnie after reading so much about it. It was everything I expected. Reminded me of Monte aux Sources in the Drakensberg. I will leave Rob to add his bit.

Robs comment

The last few days have been fantastic , the weather , scenery and company have all been perfect. My first Col was an unforgetable experience. The constant uphill climbs and screaming leg muscles was over shadowed by the beauty and sense of achievement of making the top. I started off extremely strongly and pushed well ahead of Richard , only to look behind to find him silently setting of my back wheel. I desparately needed an extra gear ( a fact that will be rectified next trip ). The Sat morning boys would love this experience and maybe we should look at substituting Rottnest for France , but we definitely need to find some hills to practice on. Will load photos next week when I catch up with Jill. We need to push on now Panniers ladden to our next stop Bagneres de Gorre. Eat your hearts out as this is the way to live life.

Banana break up the Gavarnie

End of climb, at Gavarnie

Gavarnie

Richard with polka dot bike at top of l'Aubisque

Top of l'Aubisque

3 girls in Aix

Bode in front of Patisserie (petit dejeuner)

Aix is gorgeous and very exciting to meet Jill at the train station - full of energy and exciting stories! Mostly we just eat fantastic pastries and vegies from the market but we do go out for little excursions between feasting. Cezanne's studio an amazing experience for me (Dinny) and Bode, and Jill very open to acquiring the taste.

From Bode -Most amazing festival of associations on sunday, loads of people dancing beautifully in the cours mirabeau and having a good time as only the aixois can do, we must remember to be less precious and self-conscious! Petit dejeneur is so so good...one cant get over the quality of this food!

Monacos and olives at Les Deux Garcons, Cours Mirabeau

our garden in Aix

Dinny and Bode at l'Atelier de Cezanne

Bode outside studio

Aix en Provence

A lot of time in trains really since last entry. We had to catch the 6.30am train from Lourdes to Toulouse and Richard was there to say good bye! Then there was coffee and pastries in Toulouse before getting on the train to Pamiers where we were met by Dianne and Robin and more coffee. They live up in the mountains between Pamiers and Foix which is absolutely stunning. After a wonderful lunch of homemade tomato tart and figs from their tree we drove way up into the Pyrenees and went for a beautiful long walk. It was more like being in Switzerland with the cows and horses wearing their big bells. The big negative there is the steep windy roads and the car sickness, but that improved a lot once I pushed Dianne and Rob into the back. Then there were drinks and dinner on the terrace - I recommend this hotel - and then breakfast all laid on before having to head back to Pamiers for more trains. Rob back to Lourdes and me to Marseilles - Aix en Provence. That was all pretty uneventful (I forgot to mention the wonderful pack lunch from Dianne of farm egg sandwiches and cherry tomoatoes and figs). Not sure how the rest of the train felt about the egg.

So now Rob will try and keep up the cycling news from his iphone and I am here with Dinny and Bode in a little flat in the centre of Aix. I will see if I can get them to add their bits to the blog - it is fun to be here with them but quite a culture shock for me. We walked around the corner to the main street which was full of all the different local societies doing their stuff, the most entertaining of which was the dancing - all these people just dancing in the street and a few kids joining in on the edges and a few others zooming through on their bikes. It was a really great atmosphere. Then we came back for our beers and vegetables and some more talking and huge bath and bed. Don't think Rob is living in the same luxury in Pierrenefitte (Celia said something about checking for bugs and then Richard said the owner was too drunk to get the breakfast the next day).

Photos and Bode and Dinny's turn later in the day. I think I am on duty to go and buy the pastries this morning.

Later - delicious pastries and walk around Aix en provence but Monday not much open. But will just add a few photos before we set off to see l'atelier do Cezanne.

View from hotel I think.

Richard writing blog

Hotel in Lourdes 

Robin and Dianne at prat d' something, overlooking Foix

Looking over towards Andorra