4th Dec

Three weeks since last week and still happy here on the farm. (By myself again as it's Saturday which is Rob's weekly TV fix). We had a week in Cape Town staying with Dinny and Chris which was lovely - a bit of beach, coffees, lunches, shopping, visiting friends and talking. But otherwise we've mostly just been here on the farm with Alec and Kjersti and then Dinny and Meg have just been here for a week. But they've all gone now so it's just us and sometimes Richard.

Alec, Kjersti, Celia, Richard, Rob - Braai at the farm

Rob is still working like a Trojan, putting up a ceiling in the kitchen at the moment. But the rest of us have slowed down a bit it seems. The veggie garden is growing by itself now mostly and there are not so many jobs for my limited skills. But Alec, Richard and Rob have put up the gutters now and fixed the hot water systems and drains. Alec and Kjersti have done quite a bit of riding and the rest of us have had a few turns (yes, even me) but the one horse is too naughty for everyone except Kjersti and Richard. So we all just have turns on Graniet who's great.

Just finishing getting dressed

Richard and Rob

Saturday 13th November

The 8 hour drive was very pleasant in our little rental with our delicious padkos. Graaff Reinet was great too. We  met Tank Coetzee who lent us a car and we stayed the night with Charles and Ira Maasdorp (distant relatives), who were all wonderful. Charles and Ira took us to the Valley of Desolation where Charles produced a little picnic basket and glasses of wine. Then we had a walk around Winterhoek which is the farm where my mother grew up. That was amazing - it's now been bought up by the Camdeboo National Park so we saw Koedoe and springbok and stuff. The next day there was a huge table set for breakfast before we drove to Oudtshoorn and then on to Beaufort West.

Charles and Ira at Winterhoek

Charles and Rob at Valley of Desolation

And here we are still a week later with Alec and Kjersti (my nephew and his Norwegian girlfriend). We are living in the old farm house on Richard's farm (about 150 years) where my grandparents lived almost all their lives. It is on the verge of falling down but the roof has now been re-thatched and Alec has managed to install solar powered electricity (with some help from Rob). And now we are just cleaning and doing various fixing jobs which all require a lot of antihistamines for me. But it is lovely here - bit of a problem for Kjersti who has a strong aversion to mice and I think snakes since she came face to face with a cobra the other day while out for a little walk. It stood up in the road in front of her which was pretty scary.

I am sitting here all by myself at the moment as Rob has gone to Charles Koster's farm (neighbour) to watch the rugby, and Alec and Kjersti have gone to Sutherland to fetch 2 horses they are borrowing for a few months. So it is very quiet and peaceful here and nearly time for a little glass of wine while I prepare something delicious for dinner for the workers.

South Africa

Well we have had 5 great days here in Joburg (well I have, Rob was sick for a day or so). We have just been staying with Margaret and Campbell and Andrew, spending time with family. And tonight we are going out for dinner with Jan and Franco Barocas (old uni friends). The big task was to organise to get to Graaff Reinet where someone has kindly offered to lend us a car. So tomorrow we drive down in a rental car, stay the night with Charles and Ira Maasdorp and then drive through to Oudtshoorn on Friday to drop off the rental and then onto the farm in Beaufort West. I think at that point our standard of living is going to change dramatically. Alec and Kjersti are there already doing a major clean up after the re-thatching of the roof. But apparently there is still no power and quite a lot of very old dust.

For those who have been emailing to stay in touch - we will go into town periodically so will be able to collect messages and will try to reply. But the only immediate form of communication we have is the land line.

So no photos today but will try to take some while at the farm.

London from Rob

Well London has turned on spectacular weather for our few days. Clear blue skies, no wind but still cold so one needs to put on extra layers. Had the opportunity to go to the top of NZ House with Corisha where we had amazing views over London and where we could get our bearings. Walked through James Park to Buckingham Palace, then onto Big Ben before navigating the Tube system home. Have really enjoyed catching the double decker buses and trains - only walked in the wrong direction once when coming up to ground level. Took in Les Miserables at the Queens Theatre on Tuesday evening which was awesome. Even made me have goosebumps. And Tracey and Corisha took us to a great Thai place afterwards. Had dinner with Jill's nephew, David on our last night at a little restaurant overlooking the canal, which was great.

Rob and Corisha at top of NZ house

Dinner at the Eagle 

Caught more trains to Bristol on Thursday to see John. Had a typical Pub lunch at The Penny Farthing and caught up on all his news. He has absolutely fallen in love with his new life in Bristol and already talking about extending his time if possible. With his birthday on the 28th and our absence for Xmas we went shopping for new shoes, coats, icebreaker, umbrella etc - all much needed. Went and saw his hall of residence " Wills " which he says is the best in every possible way. We feel very lucky that he is so happy. Luckily Jill has old family friends in Bristol just down the road from Wills, so we stayed 3 nights with them. It was good spending some time with them as well as seeing John. We had a great last lunch at Jenny and Pete's and Arthur and Anna and Lara and Sasha came down from London, and John fitted us in between rugby coaching in the morning and hockey in the afternoon.

John in front of Science building at Bristol

John ready for formal dinner on a Friday night

The famous Clifton suspension bridge designed by Brunelles

Pete and Jenny, Arthur and Anna and Lara and Sasha

Athens - London

Somehow doing the blog with no photos seems a bit pointless. But I can't just stop so will keep going for now. The Greek night was not too spectacular - not even any spannekopita, and there were just 4 people looking a bit bored with their dance - or maybe they were enjoying themselves but we were a bit uninspired. So by Saturday morning we were quite ready to pack up and spend the morning at Bali Beach which was lovely - but not so easy to get drinnks and lunch as the tavernas pointed out that everything was closing the next day so they were not serving anything other than Toast today.  So Toast it was. And then we drove on to Knossos which was pretty spectacular. We did a little guided tour around the old Palace of Knossos which was about the oldest place we have seen - more than 1000 BC I think I remember!! Then we drove into Heraklion to catch our plane to Athens but squeezed in a Hamburger and chips at Donald's (well that was the English translation - I have been having a great time learning to read Greek but not to understand it).

We were very brave in Athens and decided to catch public transport to our hotel at 8pm on a Saturday night. My knowledge of Greek didn't quite extend to instructions on which underground to take and at which station to change etc. And we didn't find the other Greek passengers very interested in our problems. So when we saw them all getting out the train we just got out too and tried again. We eventually got a train to the Acropolis  and caught a taxi to Syntegma Square which is where we found our wonderful hotel. The next day we found the train station right outside our hotel which we had gone right through. Anyway - we were happy to sleep (slight disturbances of airconditioner pouring out water onto TV in middle of night and loud guests and heat without airconditioner and noisy street). But we are getting used to all those things. And the view from the restaurant on the 10th floor, where we ate breakfast made up for it all. It looked right over the city and the Acropolis and Parthenon - absolutely amazing.

From restaurant

And Sunday was a beautiful day, so we did a guided walking tour of Government House and the Acropolis. The first spectacle was the Changing of the Guards. No camera yet so just some on Rob's i-phone, but that was a great show. There is no doubt that is where John Cleese got his inspiration for his Ministry of Funny Walks. We went back in the afternoon just for another laugh. The whole tour was great and the guide was wonderful with a sense of humour. And it was nice to be walking again after a week in the car. We had a great meal at a little Taverna that night, sitting outside. Then the next day was pouring so we bought our camera, kept checking for emails but to no avail as everyone has gone quiet again. We finally threatened John that we wouldn't pay for his res if he didn't write before we got to London. So it was good to get an update from him on the train from Heathrow to Paddington.

Hard to really capture these weird moves but sure you could google them.

The flight from Athens to London was full, long and bumpy. But London has been lovely so far. Rob's niece, Corisha, met us at Paddington Station to help us find their flat. Then his other niece, Tracey, came home early enough for us to have a drink and pizza at the local pub. It was great to see them and lovely to be staying in a home again. Today we have done lots of talking on the phone and skype and went for a lovely walk along the canal to Islington, before the rain started. Rob managed to fit in a hair cut too. We are hoping to see David (my nephew) tonight and are thinking of trying to book to see Avenue Q. So we will see how we go.

Temple of Zeus at bottom of Acropolis

From Parthenon looking at Odeon where they still hold performances (Pavarotti performed here)

More Crete

No blog for a few days, partly because we get tired of having to come down to the pool to get internet and partly because I am not always inspired to write. Well it is Friday now so we are leaving for Athens tomorrow and then the UK for a week and then Paris and South Africa. The weather in October has definitely been less calm and summery than September. After the one sunny day we had a ghastly Southerly that blew for a couple of days (something worse than a Berg wind in SA or an Easterly in Perth). Then there was some rain and finally today a little bit of clear sky and sun. But we soldiered on and drove all around the West Coast the one day ending at Elafonisi on the South West coast which was absolutely beautiful. There was a howling gale and some amazing kite surfing but we were sorry we couldn't stay longer but didn't want to be negotiating the roads in the dark. We have NEVER been on roads anything like this before - winding and narrow and HIGH - many places I couldn't look out my window at all without breaking into a sweat.

South Coast - bit bleak and windy

Elafonisi

 (Photos don't want to upload?? - will try another time as I am getting frustrated with this now)

Kite surfers

Really lovely village with spectacular views down valley

Then the next day we decided to wind our way to the ancient city of Lappa which was amazing, and then ended up on the South Coast again for a swim at Korakos. I took some beautiful photos of Rob up on the rocks - even one of him diving off the rocks into the sparkling water. But - who know what happened after that as we had no camera by the time we arrived home. Hard to think I would leave it on the beach but also can't imagine when someone could have stolen it. But it is gone which is very sad. The next day we drove all the way back to ask at the little tavernas if anyone had handed it in but they just laughed at the idea, especially as by that time it was pouring and thundering. But one of the tavernas must have felt sorry for us as we had coffee and cake there at no charge.
So that was not good for our moods and we had to negotiate the city police station to file a report. (which of course is in Greek so not sure what the insurance will say about that).
So today we were pleased to see some blue sky and headed off along the North Coast to a beautiful bay called something like Imbrosglias. No beach, just rocks but stunning sitting there in the sun. Then we drove on to a SANDY beach which was a huge luxury here, where we relaxed until we had to fetch the jolly police report.
Tonight we have a special Greek dancing night here in the complex - hope that is fun.

Imbrosgialos

Almiryda - sandy beach was just around the corner

Crete

The sun finally came out today so we drove over to the Southern side of the island. Amazing little windy roads through huge gorges.

We were heading for Plakias but stopped at a little unmarked beach which was fantastic. We had to share it with the sheep and goats. But we had nice sun beds and umbrellas and had a lovely time swimming (Libyan Sea now) and reading our books and trying to improve our tans! Think we still have a way to go.

Siena - Rome - Athens - Crete

Siena was a magnificent city. We had perfect weather and enjoyed wandering around looking at the cathedrals and churches and forts etc. And of course a lot of sitting in the main square eating and drinking and just enjoying some sunshine. We met up with another couple from Sydney who had also just done the walk from San Gimignano, and joined them for dinner the one night as they had a restaurant that had been recommended to them. The special recommendation was truffles so we all had the pasta with truffles and nice wine and delicious desert and coffee. So it was a bigger night than usual for us but we are not convinced that we would order truffles again (but still pleased we tried them at least). We were sorry to be leaving Siena but very happy to be out of our hotel which was certainly out of the question for anybody who has trouble sleeping through noise.
So next morning after more coffees and toast in the sun in the square with the Australians we spent 3 hours in the bus to Rome and spent the night there before flying to Athens and then on to Crete. Rome was fun - Rob had found a lovely hotel round the corner from the Trevi Fountain so we wandered along there for coffee and pizza and up the Spanish Steps, then took a walk down to the Colosseum. We just happened to notice a van Gogh  exhibition so popped into that too. Rob was surprised how much he enjoyed it.
The day of travelling was long but fine - the last hour or so of driving to the resort was a challenge. We picked up a tiny little rental car and the drive was beautiful for a while but then it was dark. The resort is very different from anything else so far this trip - I suppose typical timeshare, but we were met with a red rose and a glass of orange juice and shown up to our 2 level appartment overlooking the pool. All good except for the weather which is looking a bit winterish so far. We spent today doing our washing (as there are no laundromats here apparently) and then wandering around an old castle which was interesting in that it was not much of a match for the Italian castles we have been visiting. The other problem is a little dog nearby which sounds as if it is being murdered. Rob has gone to investigate but don't suppose we will have much clout here.
So we have a week here now which is a very relaxing thought.

Trevi fountain very early in morning

colosseum

Siena

From top of cathedral in Siena

ATG walk and siena

Still battling to find internet in Italy but have a few minutes left at internet cafe so will just write a few lines. Rob has gone to buy our bus tickets and not sure what is taking so long - hope he isn't lost somewhere in Siena.
Well, the 3 days of walking have been fantastic. It threatened to rain for the first 2 days but nothing much happened. And then from Monteriggione to Siena we had a beautiful day. Monteriggione is a tiny little hilltop walled village with 65 inhabitants and we were staying high up in an old building with a beautiful view out of a little castle window. It was a really lovely place (much more charming than Colle). The accommodation in Siena isn't that flash but the city is great and the weather is good so we will just enjoy the place. We walked about 6 hours on days 2 and 3 so were quite tired by the end, especially as a lot of it is through slippery clay which gets stuck to your shoes.

San Gimignano in background

Monteriggione

Arriving at Monteriggione gate after 6 hours of walking

Inside Monteriggione

Views on walk

San Gimignano - colle val d'Elsa

I just realised there is a gap in the blog as I wrote a couple of emails yesterday instead. But we had 2 great days in San Gimignano exploring the city and went for a walk around the outside practising following our instructions from ATG. It was only 2 hours but steep and strenuous - definitely left us feeling like we deserved a nice glass of Italian wine at a spot near the top of the city overlooking just about the whole of Tuscany. We ate well, drank well and rested well and now have just finished 1st day of walking - from San G to Colle. Great day with no rain - really beautiful scenery especially first half. About 4 hours walking and instructions not too difficult to follow. Colle val d'Elsa is much less touristy and the village doesn't seem in quite as good condition. But we haven't had a good look around yet. Ate our lunch when we arrived and then collapsed for a while and showered so ready to head out again now. The next 2 days look a lot tougher and the next village (Montereggione) only has a population of 65!

Rob's comment

It's been a while since my last entry but needed to have a say. Cinque Terre looked exactly as all the tourist brochures showed and is really stunning but just full of tourists. 2 days is all one needs, even when all the trails are open. Enjoyed our day of changing trains to get to San Gimignano - very proud of our efforts of doing it on the cheap ( John you would be proud ). Tucany is just beautiful with soft pastelly colours, sloping vineyards everywhere , amazing buildings ,etc. Still full of tourists ( I think a lot of Catholics ) visiting this amazing old city. Enjoyed today and very pleased to have Jill to keep us on the right track. Looking forward to next few days.

San Gimignano

S G (Different view)

Some Italians at place where we had glass of wine

Cinque Terre

This feels very pressurised as there is no wifi so am paying per half hour! Anyway, spent yesterday in train from Nice - Monaco - Ventemiglia - Riomaggiore. The first French bit was stunning, although the train was pretty old and noisy. Then for some reason once we hit Ventemiglia lots of really rude noisy Italian children started getting on and also some really smelly guys trying to avoid the ticket controller. Also we spent most of the time in tunnels so couldn't enjoy the scenery any more. Anyway we duly arrived in Riomaggiore in the evening and took the hike up to our room which is fine and even has a balcony. The area is just like in the pictures - the beautiful colours and little villages on the hills and in the bays. But unfortunately it is absolutely PACKED with tourists. Today has been rainy but we walked between Monterosso and Vernazzo which was still lovely even in the rain with the steep, muddy paths and pretty heavy pedestrian traffic. After 2 hours of that we were drenched so stopped for ravioli and beers and coffee and then home for siesta.
Can't seem to do photos from here so will try another time.

Well it is another time now and I have just written another paragraph which the nasty Italian internet lost!! This country is very different from France in lots of ways. To get internet you have to present your passport and then pay through the nose as well. Actually this hotel tells me it is free since I am staying here but it just seems a very different attitude to tourists. Apparently they are very scared of terrorists! But not the French? Anyway, I will have to be brief now as somehow it is not the same writing something for a second time. I am not really sure how to describe our experience in Cinque Terre - it is absolutely beautiful but after 3 nights there we had had enough. The weather was grey and drizzly most of the time which didn't help, but today was lovely so we were planning to walk the paths we hadn't been able to do in the rain. But we soon gathered that they had closed the paths due to bad weather and it didn't look like they were going to open them again. So there were even more tourists milling about everywhere and there is only so much admiring the view that one can do. So we packed up this morning and embarked on another million trains to get to San Gimignano. Our spirits lifted as we got closer as the scenery is stunning and it is nice to be in this sort of countryside again. The hotel is right in the village and is lovely. So we dropped our bags and collapsed outside for a beer and a delicious thing which I think was a foccacia. We have 2 nights here and then start our 4 day walk to Siena. Hope this weather lasts.
I have given up on photos - maybe in Rome??

1st rainy day - looking back to Monterosso

coming in to Vernazza after about 2 hours walking in the rain

Vernazza

last word from bode

Just a quickie from a "wannabe wilmot sister"....
As the designated driver I managed to achieve two near impossible feats which left the party near speechless ( ok thats a little of the poetic licence but it was very funny)
Driving through the incredibly narrow cycle track like lanes has been challenging to say the least but I was able to wedge the hire car between 2 buildings!! It took much manoeuvering, pulling in the side mirrors and backwards and forwards a few times before we were free.
I am also ashamed to admit that I was overtaken by a bicycle .
The trip has been very good and hats off to Rob for being one of the girls!
Jenny, for the food police, I have a question for you once you see the photos and Doug we are forever in your debt for your kind words!
Love
bode

Nice

We have only had 2 nights in Nice which has been very short. We left Vence after breakfast and very soon found ourselves on the outskirts of Nice but then things got more difficult. All roads seemed to lead to the airport so that is where we went and found we could just drop our car off there. We had plans of catching a taxi to our hotel but it turned out we were too snoep and opted for the cheaper alternative of bus. It was wonderfully easy as it just drove straight along the Promenade and we jumped off about 2 or 3 hundred metres from the Nice Garden Hotel which has been perfect. We have all been surprised to really like Nice. We went down to the beach and Rob and I went for a swim which was an amazing ordeal. The pebbly beach made getting into the water enormously uncomfortable. But then getting out - I just got the giggles as I had to climb out on all fours up this steep bank and then I got Dinny to throw me some shoes and I collapsed at the top of the bank exhausted. So no more swims although beautiful warm weather. We did a bit of shopping and wandering around the old city and the inevitable eating and drinking, all of which was great.
Tomorrow Dinny sets off at 5am and then the rest of us at more civilised hours.

Nice beach in evening

On promenade

On promenade facing other way

Montfort to the coast

Well - not so much blogging from Montfort as it turned out, but it was a great week and very different from Aix. Having a car changed things a lot - not as relaxing as just walking but great to see the surrounding countryside and villages and great not to have to negotiate the buses. We popped in at the local Tabac on our last night for a drink which was quite interesting - we didn't really look like locals. Anyway Saturday was my birthday so we started with a delicious omelette (courtesy of Bode) with fresh baguette and coffee. Then we set out on our big drive. The weather was stunning and the drive started off quite pleasantly, through the vineyards and olive groves, and only one wrong turn. Then we hit some amazing gorges and narrow roads. I think it was one of my most scary experiences - I couldn't look out of my window at the amazing scenery and poor Rob was sweating I think trying to keep all 4 wheels on the road while the French drivers came hurtling down on the wrong side of the road and the cyclists had full faith they were quite safe sharing the road with us all. I have a sore shoulder now, I think from trying to hang on to my seat. Anyway, we made it over the top and almost to St Tropez which was supposed to be our first stop for coffee. But after an hour of crawling along in the traffic we gave up about a km out and headed for a little pink cafe on the beach which was great (except for the standing block toilets). Then the drive all along that coast was magnificent. It would have been great to have been cycling along there. We stopped for lunch in St Raphael amongst all the big yachts and I managed to squeeze in another Creme Brulee for my birthday. Then we carried on along the coast to Cannes and then inland to Vence It was a long day for the drivers but spectacular scenery.
Vence is amazing too - we had dinner in a creperie in the the old city and then today went to St Paul de Vence this morning and the Maeght foundation and then to Grasse this afternoon. All wonderful and maybe some more details from the others.
Tomorrow we have to return the car in Nice and then 2 nights there before Dinny leaves for S.A. and Bode for Copenhagen.

Rob with St Tropez coastline in background (sort of)

Pink cafe on beach

52nd birthday lunch at St Raphael

Birthday dinner in Vence

Bode - St Paul de Vence

Lunch St Paul de Vence