Richards Addition

I don't want this Aussie blog to be taken over by a south african but it seems to have some SA readers who keep asking questions, like Chris who sent an sms at 11pm last night wanting to know why nobody was going for the pink jersey. Well I know you are colour blind but even so you should know there is no pink jersey in the tour de France. Or perhaps your geography is at fault, there is a maglia rosa in the Giro.
Anyway here is my version of the last few days.
After 4 rest days Celia lead the peloton out of Pierrefitte at 27kmh and we roared into Lourdes where we blogged and then had to climb the first of the hills on our journey east along the foothills of the pyrenees. Our first town was Bagneres de Bigorre but it was only lunch time so we decided to continue only to be immediately confronted with the 2nd hill of the day. These hills are not so long but are still hard work with full panniers. This was followed by a lovely long descent and we flew along to the base of a 3rd climb where there was a small auberge. Rob went in to ask directions to the next town (Lannemezan),and I had to work hard to persuade him that cold beer and wine and a bed in a beautiful country setting was better than attacking another big climb just then. It was awonderful place (30euros a room Alec) and Rob met a very nice New Zealander from Rotorua to whom he chatted for a long time.
Next morning C set off ahead of us because she struggles on the hills. When we eventually caught up with her at the top I could see from her face it was going to be a difficult day for me. I suggested she change into a lower gear only to be told abruptly that she was already in her lowest gear. I then noticed she had done the whole climb in her middle chain ring. She eventually saw the funny side of it but had hurt her knee in the process. The rest of the day was wonderful undulating cycling with lovely scenery to Salies du Salat. Then the next day all along the river to this place near Massat.

Celia making it to the top

Friday in Aix

Today was our last day here and the only slightly miserable, grey day. We seem to have spent a lot of our time trying to organise some outings out of Aix which we have managed on two occasions. The first was to Puylubiere which came about when we told the tourist chap that the tours were too expensive. He was very pleased to offer us this option for only one euro. It sounded perfect but it was a really weird experience. It was hot and dry and very closed over lunch time so we wandered around and admired Mont Sainte Victoire , and then settled down on a bench to wait for our return bus. We could all see quite a marked similarity to Graaff Reinett. We were very pleased to arrive back in Aix which has been lovely. I think we did a bit more shopping (some bits of material for my quilt) and had a drink on the Cours Mirabeau, then Bode cooked delicious gnocci for dinner. The night before we went to a great little place called the Bistro Latin where we ate duck again and creme brulee.

Puylubiere with a bit of the mountain behind

Today we were out all day as we caught the bus to Arles and St Remy. Arles was pretty ordinary and I thought Dinny was going to throw up when she tasted her coffee. But St Remy was a beautiful village. We took heaps of photos but they seem to be mostly of the quaint streets and gorgeous colours of provence - mainly walls and shutters - so maybe I won't include all those. John would have loved the Roman ruins in Arles where they still hold the bull fights.

Bode and Dinny in Arles with Rhone in background (where van Gogh painted Starry Night apparently)

Arles

One of the many photos of shutters in St Remy

Poor Rob had a bad day worrying about his Dad who is in hospital with an infection. Hope all is going well there.

Dinny and Bode don't look interested in having turns tonight so I had better just go and pack my bag and get ready for the drive to Montfort tomorrow. (I think it is very close but we are not sure what we will find when we get there.)

Robs Addition

Well, we are 3 days further into our adventure. The weather has taken a turn for the worse with heavy cloud and constant scottish mist , however the riding experience is just great. It gives one another prospective of life in country France with all the soft colours, massive amounts of running water , quiet streets , old buildings , narrow lane ways in farming communities. I didn't appreciate how beautiful the French countryside is !

We have stayed in some very quaint hotels , where the food has been pleasantly good , though sometimes served up in what looks like the dogs bowl. The beds , bathrooms and pillows all vary greatly and there isn't a huge amount of privacy with paper thin walls. They all have power saving lights , so the passageways are often pitch dark. I managed to set off the Fire Alarm one evening whilst trying to find light switch. Not the best way to endear yourself to French owners. No complaints - all parts of the experience. My understanding of the French language and my ability to speak French amounts to a very fat zero.

We never did find out what this place was called

Richard and Celia in the mist (not gorillas)

We have a couple of more Cols to climb before Monday and I think the weather will clear , so looking forward to being rewarded with spectacular views over the Pyrennes.

To Dad back in Tauranga New Zealand , I'm thinking of your always and I hope you are feeling better and will be back at Pillans Rd soon. You are made of tough stuff and a little old infection is not going to get the better of you. Love you - Rob , Jill, Catherine and John

Waiting for Godot

Spot the pastries!

Pyrenees Addition

Richard
Sat 11th Sept
Jill left today but we are expected to continue the blog but have not found internet yet. Celia and I rode up to Pierrefitte today and I found the best hotel ever , elia hated it instantly , we had the biggest room yet with one window overlooking the noisy river that drowned out all unpleasant noises like traffic and C telling me to pack away my clothes. I spent hours lying on one of the 3 beds and even C admitted she had not seen me look as peaceful since leaving the farm . But the building was very old and not too clean and hotel man ( barman , receptionist ,waiter and everything else) was swarthy and only guardedly friendly , think he is a Basque seperatist. Best of all was the price E56 DBB for 2 people. Alec would have been proud of me. Things started to deteriorate when we went down for supper , when I asked for some ice for C's wine , hotel man glared and said what for. I bravely stood my ground and he reluctantly went off and came back with two iceblocks in his hand. The food was plentiful but C said was uneatable. next morning C wouldn't come down for breakfast , so I went down alone and found all the quest milling around in confusion , hotel man hadn't arrived. It was a really strange scene and I went back to fetch C so she could see real French people acting with no concern for tourist. by 9.30 no one had arrived so we went out of a side door to another hotel for coffee , I had to concide defeat and booked 2 rooms there. We found out hotelman was drunk the night before. This place is very clean and friendly and has loud traffic.
12th Sept
The next part is mainly for Alec who asked some technical questions of a competitive nature like which of us is in yellow and who is in the polka dot. Well until Jill left Rob was playing the part super domestique so it was difficult to tell. But on his return from Foix without Jill he rode an individual Time Trail from Lourdes to Pierrefitte with Panniers at 33 kmh which puts him fairly in yellow and he is far to strong to challenge?
13th Sept
However after riding to Col d'Aubisque I think I might have the Polka Dot in the bag except that Rob has a cunning plan to use C's bike on the Tourmalet tomorrow. When we set off up the Aubisque I hoped Rob would make the beginners mistake of starting too fast but he stayed with me for the first km before impatience got the better of him and he started pulling ahead. I thought I wouldn't see him again , but half way up he came into view and soon I was sitting on his wheel. Afterwards I pulled away to the top of the col. It is difficult for a first timer to imagine the length of these climbs. He also the excuse of having a heavy bike with no suitable gear for 8.5 % gradiant. The weather was beautiful and so was the scenery. I hope Rob's photography does it justice. Rob is a demon descender and sitting on his wheel on the descent reminded me of following down a steep ski run. A brillant day cycling.
14th Sept
I have talked Rob out of doing the Tourmalet and going to Gavarnie instead. This kills two birds with one stone. There are no more out of catorgary climbs on the route , so he cannot get enough points to get the Polka Dot jersey off my shoulders and secondly I've always wanted to vist Gavarnie after reading so much about it. It was everything I expected. Reminded me of Monte aux Sources in the Drakensberg. I will leave Rob to add his bit.

Robs comment

The last few days have been fantastic , the weather , scenery and company have all been perfect. My first Col was an unforgetable experience. The constant uphill climbs and screaming leg muscles was over shadowed by the beauty and sense of achievement of making the top. I started off extremely strongly and pushed well ahead of Richard , only to look behind to find him silently setting of my back wheel. I desparately needed an extra gear ( a fact that will be rectified next trip ). The Sat morning boys would love this experience and maybe we should look at substituting Rottnest for France , but we definitely need to find some hills to practice on. Will load photos next week when I catch up with Jill. We need to push on now Panniers ladden to our next stop Bagneres de Gorre. Eat your hearts out as this is the way to live life.

Banana break up the Gavarnie

End of climb, at Gavarnie

Gavarnie

Richard with polka dot bike at top of l'Aubisque

Top of l'Aubisque

3 girls in Aix

Bode in front of Patisserie (petit dejeuner)

Aix is gorgeous and very exciting to meet Jill at the train station - full of energy and exciting stories! Mostly we just eat fantastic pastries and vegies from the market but we do go out for little excursions between feasting. Cezanne's studio an amazing experience for me (Dinny) and Bode, and Jill very open to acquiring the taste.

From Bode -Most amazing festival of associations on sunday, loads of people dancing beautifully in the cours mirabeau and having a good time as only the aixois can do, we must remember to be less precious and self-conscious! Petit dejeneur is so so good...one cant get over the quality of this food!

Monacos and olives at Les Deux Garcons, Cours Mirabeau

our garden in Aix

Dinny and Bode at l'Atelier de Cezanne

Bode outside studio

Aix en Provence

A lot of time in trains really since last entry. We had to catch the 6.30am train from Lourdes to Toulouse and Richard was there to say good bye! Then there was coffee and pastries in Toulouse before getting on the train to Pamiers where we were met by Dianne and Robin and more coffee. They live up in the mountains between Pamiers and Foix which is absolutely stunning. After a wonderful lunch of homemade tomato tart and figs from their tree we drove way up into the Pyrenees and went for a beautiful long walk. It was more like being in Switzerland with the cows and horses wearing their big bells. The big negative there is the steep windy roads and the car sickness, but that improved a lot once I pushed Dianne and Rob into the back. Then there were drinks and dinner on the terrace - I recommend this hotel - and then breakfast all laid on before having to head back to Pamiers for more trains. Rob back to Lourdes and me to Marseilles - Aix en Provence. That was all pretty uneventful (I forgot to mention the wonderful pack lunch from Dianne of farm egg sandwiches and cherry tomoatoes and figs). Not sure how the rest of the train felt about the egg.

So now Rob will try and keep up the cycling news from his iphone and I am here with Dinny and Bode in a little flat in the centre of Aix. I will see if I can get them to add their bits to the blog - it is fun to be here with them but quite a culture shock for me. We walked around the corner to the main street which was full of all the different local societies doing their stuff, the most entertaining of which was the dancing - all these people just dancing in the street and a few kids joining in on the edges and a few others zooming through on their bikes. It was a really great atmosphere. Then we came back for our beers and vegetables and some more talking and huge bath and bed. Don't think Rob is living in the same luxury in Pierrenefitte (Celia said something about checking for bugs and then Richard said the owner was too drunk to get the breakfast the next day).

Photos and Bode and Dinny's turn later in the day. I think I am on duty to go and buy the pastries this morning.

Later - delicious pastries and walk around Aix en provence but Monday not much open. But will just add a few photos before we set off to see l'atelier do Cezanne.

View from hotel I think.

Richard writing blog

Hotel in Lourdes 

Robin and Dianne at prat d' something, overlooking Foix

Looking over towards Andorra