Verrans Big Bike Ride

4th Dec

2010-12-17T07:53:00.000-08:00

Three weeks since last week and still happy here on the farm. (By myself again as it's Saturday which is Rob's weekly TV fix). We had a week in Cape Town staying with Dinny and Chris which was lovely - a bit of beach, coffees, lunches, shopping, visiting friends and talking. But otherwise we've mostly just been here on the farm with Alec and Kjersti and then Dinny and Meg have just been here for a week. But they've all gone now so it's just us and sometimes Richard.

Alec, Kjersti, Celia, Richard, Rob - Braai at the farm

Rob is still working like a Trojan, putting up a ceiling in the kitchen at the moment. But the rest of us have slowed down a bit it seems. The veggie garden is growing by itself now mostly and there are not so many jobs for my limited skills. But Alec, Richard and Rob have put up the gutters now and fixed the hot water systems and drains. Alec and Kjersti have done quite a bit of riding and the rest of us have had a few turns (yes, even me) but the one horse is too naughty for everyone except Kjersti and Richard. So we all just have turns on Graniet who's great.

Just finishing getting dressed

Richard and Rob

Saturday 13th November

2010-11-17T00:37:00.000-08:00

The 8 hour drive was very pleasant in our little rental with our delicious padkos. Graaff Reinet was great too. We met Tank Coetzee who lent us a car and we stayed the night with Charles and Ira Maasdorp (distant relatives), who were all wonderful. Charles and Ira took us to the Valley of Desolation where Charles produced a little picnic basket and glasses of wine. Then we had a walk around Winterhoek which is the farm where my mother grew up. That was amazing - it's now been bought up by the Camdeboo National Park so we saw Koedoe and springbok and stuff. The next day there was a huge table set for breakfast before we drove to Oudtshoorn and then on to Beaufort West.

Charles and Ira at Winterhoek

Charles and Rob at Valley of Desolation

And here we are still a week later with Alec and Kjersti (my nephew and his Norwegian girlfriend). We are living in the old farm house on Richard's farm (about 150 years) where my grandparents lived almost all their lives. It is on the verge of falling down but the roof has now been re-thatched and Alec has managed to install solar powered electricity (with some help from Rob). And now we are just cleaning and doing various fixing jobs which all require a lot of antihistamines for me. But it is lovely here - bit of a problem for Kjersti who has a strong aversion to mice and I think snakes since she came face to face with a cobra the other day while out for a little walk. It stood up in the road in front of her which was pretty scary.

I am sitting here all by myself at the moment as Rob has gone to Charles Koster's farm (neighbour) to watch the rugby, and Alec and Kjersti have gone to Sutherland to fetch 2 horses they are borrowing for a few months. So it is very quiet and peaceful here and nearly time for a little glass of wine while I prepare something delicious for dinner for the workers.

South Africa

2010-11-03T08:43:00.000-07:00

Well we have had 5 great days here in Joburg (well I have, Rob was sick for a day or so). We have just been staying with Margaret and Campbell and Andrew, spending time with family. And tonight we are going out for dinner with Jan and Franco Barocas (old uni friends). The big task was to organise to get to Graaff Reinet where someone has kindly offered to lend us a car. So tomorrow we drive down in a rental car, stay the night with Charles and Ira Maasdorp and then drive through to Oudtshoorn on Friday to drop off the rental and then onto the farm in Beaufort West. I think at that point our standard of living is going to change dramatically. Alec and Kjersti are there already doing a major clean up after the re-thatching of the roof. But apparently there is still no power and quite a lot of very old dust.

For those who have been emailing to stay in touch - we will go into town periodically so will be able to collect messages and will try to reply. But the only immediate form of communication we have is the land line.

So no photos today but will try to take some while at the farm.

London from Rob

2010-10-26T01:53:00.000-07:00

Well London has turned on spectacular weather for our few days. Clear blue skies, no wind but still cold so one needs to put on extra layers. Had the opportunity to go to the top of NZ House with Corisha where we had amazing views over London and where we could get our bearings. Walked through James Park to Buckingham Palace, then onto Big Ben before navigating the Tube system home. Have really enjoyed catching the double decker buses and trains - only walked in the wrong direction once when coming up to ground level. Took in Les Miserables at the Queens Theatre on Tuesday evening which was awesome. Even made me have goosebumps. And Tracey and Corisha took us to a great Thai place afterwards. Had dinner with Jill's nephew, David on our last night at a little restaurant overlooking the canal, which was great.

Rob and Corisha at top of NZ house

Dinner at the Eagle

Caught more trains to Bristol on Thursday to see John. Had a typical Pub lunch at The Penny Farthing and caught up on all his news. He has absolutely fallen in love with his new life in Bristol and already talking about extending his time if possible. With his birthday on the 28th and our absence for Xmas we went shopping for new shoes, coats, icebreaker, umbrella etc - all much needed. Went and saw his hall of residence " Wills " which he says is the best in every possible way. We feel very lucky that he is so happy. Luckily Jill has old family friends in Bristol just down the road from Wills, so we stayed 3 nights with them. It was good spending some time with them as well as seeing John. We had a great last lunch at Jenny and Pete's and Arthur and Anna and Lara and Sasha came down from London, and John fitted us in between rugby coaching in the morning and hockey in the afternoon.

John in front of Science building at Bristol

John ready for formal dinner on a Friday night

The famous Clifton suspension bridge designed by Brunelles

Pete and Jenny, Arthur and Anna and Lara and Sasha

Athens - London

2010-10-19T06:44:00.000-07:00

Somehow doing the blog with no photos seems a bit pointless. But I can't just stop so will keep going for now. The Greek night was not too spectacular - not even any spannekopita, and there were just 4 people looking a bit bored with their dance - or maybe they were enjoying themselves but we were a bit uninspired. So by Saturday morning we were quite ready to pack up and spend the morning at Bali Beach which was lovely - but not so easy to get drinnks and lunch as the tavernas pointed out that everything was closing the next day so they were not serving anything other than Toast today. So Toast it was. And then we drove on to Knossos which was pretty spectacular. We did a little guided tour around the old Palace of Knossos which was about the oldest place we have seen - more than 1000 BC I think I remember!! Then we drove into Heraklion to catch our plane to Athens but squeezed in a Hamburger and chips at Donald's (well that was the English translation - I have been having a great time learning to read Greek but not to understand it).

We were very brave in Athens and decided to catch public transport to our hotel at 8pm on a Saturday night. My knowledge of Greek didn't quite extend to instructions on which underground to take and at which station to change etc. And we didn't find the other Greek passengers very interested in our problems. So when we saw them all getting out the train we just got out too and tried again. We eventually got a train to the Acropolis and caught a taxi to Syntegma Square which is where we found our wonderful hotel. The next day we found the train station right outside our hotel which we had gone right through. Anyway - we were happy to sleep (slight disturbances of airconditioner pouring out water onto TV in middle of night and loud guests and heat without airconditioner and noisy street). But we are getting used to all those things. And the view from the restaurant on the 10th floor, where we ate breakfast made up for it all. It looked right over the city and the Acropolis and Parthenon - absolutely amazing.

From restaurant

And Sunday was a beautiful day, so we did a guided walking tour of Government House and the Acropolis. The first spectacle was the Changing of the Guards. No camera yet so just some on Rob's i-phone, but that was a great show. There is no doubt that is where John Cleese got his inspiration for his Ministry of Funny Walks. We went back in the afternoon just for another laugh. The whole tour was great and the guide was wonderful with a sense of humour. And it was nice to be walking again after a week in the car. We had a great meal at a little Taverna that night, sitting outside. Then the next day was pouring so we bought our camera, kept checking for emails but to no avail as everyone has gone quiet again. We finally threatened John that we wouldn't pay for his res if he didn't write before we got to London. So it was good to get an update from him on the train from Heathrow to Paddington.

Hard to really capture these weird moves but sure you could google them.

The flight from Athens to London was full, long and bumpy. But London has been lovely so far. Rob's niece, Corisha, met us at Paddington Station to help us find their flat. Then his other niece, Tracey, came home early enough for us to have a drink and pizza at the local pub. It was great to see them and lovely to be staying in a home again. Today we have done lots of talking on the phone and skype and went for a lovely walk along the canal to Islington, before the rain started. Rob managed to fit in a hair cut too. We are hoping to see David (my nephew) tonight and are thinking of trying to book to see Avenue Q. So we will see how we go.

Temple of Zeus at bottom of Acropolis

From Parthenon looking at Odeon where they still hold performances (Pavarotti performed here)

More Crete

2010-10-15T07:34:00.000-07:00

No blog for a few days, partly because we get tired of having to come down to the pool to get internet and partly because I am not always inspired to write. Well it is Friday now so we are leaving for Athens tomorrow and then the UK for a week and then Paris and South Africa. The weather in October has definitely been less calm and summery than September. After the one sunny day we had a ghastly Southerly that blew for a couple of days (something worse than a Berg wind in SA or an Easterly in Perth). Then there was some rain and finally today a little bit of clear sky and sun. But we soldiered on and drove all around the West Coast the one day ending at Elafonisi on the South West coast which was absolutely beautiful. There was a howling gale and some amazing kite surfing but we were sorry we couldn't stay longer but didn't want to be negotiating the roads in the dark. We have NEVER been on roads anything like this before - winding and narrow and HIGH - many places I couldn't look out my window at all without breaking into a sweat.

South Coast - bit bleak and windy

Elafonisi

(Photos don't want to upload?? - will try another time as I am getting frustrated with this now)

Kite surfers

Really lovely village with spectacular views down valley

Then the next day we decided to wind our way to the ancient city of Lappa which was amazing, and then ended up on the South Coast again for a swim at Korakos. I took some beautiful photos of Rob up on the rocks - even one of him diving off the rocks into the sparkling water. But - who know what happened after that as we had no camera by the time we arrived home. Hard to think I would leave it on the beach but also can't imagine when someone could have stolen it. But it is gone which is very sad. The next day we drove all the way back to ask at the little tavernas if anyone had handed it in but they just laughed at the idea, especially as by that time it was pouring and thundering. But one of the tavernas must have felt sorry for us as we had coffee and cake there at no charge.
So that was not good for our moods and we had to negotiate the city police station to file a report. (which of course is in Greek so not sure what the insurance will say about that).
So today we were pleased to see some blue sky and headed off along the North Coast to a beautiful bay called something like Imbrosglias. No beach, just rocks but stunning sitting there in the sun. Then we drove on to a SANDY beach which was a huge luxury here, where we relaxed until we had to fetch the jolly police report.
Tonight we have a special Greek dancing night here in the complex - hope that is fun.

Imbrosgialos

Almiryda - sandy beach was just around the corner

Crete

2010-10-11T07:53:00.000-07:00

The sun finally came out today so we drove over to the Southern side of the island. Amazing little windy roads through huge gorges.

We were heading for Plakias but stopped at a little unmarked beach which was fantastic. We had to share it with the sheep and goats. But we had nice sun beds and umbrellas and had a lovely time swimming (Libyan Sea now) and reading our books and trying to improve our tans! Think we still have a way to go.

Siena - Rome - Athens - Crete

2010-10-10T09:01:00.000-07:00

Siena was a magnificent city. We had perfect weather and enjoyed wandering around looking at the cathedrals and churches and forts etc. And of course a lot of sitting in the main square eating and drinking and just enjoying some sunshine. We met up with another couple from Sydney who had also just done the walk from San Gimignano, and joined them for dinner the one night as they had a restaurant that had been recommended to them. The special recommendation was truffles so we all had the pasta with truffles and nice wine and delicious desert and coffee. So it was a bigger night than usual for us but we are not convinced that we would order truffles again (but still pleased we tried them at least). We were sorry to be leaving Siena but very happy to be out of our hotel which was certainly out of the question for anybody who has trouble sleeping through noise.
So next morning after more coffees and toast in the sun in the square with the Australians we spent 3 hours in the bus to Rome and spent the night there before flying to Athens and then on to Crete. Rome was fun - Rob had found a lovely hotel round the corner from the Trevi Fountain so we wandered along there for coffee and pizza and up the Spanish Steps, then took a walk down to the Colosseum. We just happened to notice a van Gogh exhibition so popped into that too. Rob was surprised how much he enjoyed it.
The day of travelling was long but fine - the last hour or so of driving to the resort was a challenge. We picked up a tiny little rental car and the drive was beautiful for a while but then it was dark. The resort is very different from anything else so far this trip - I suppose typical timeshare, but we were met with a red rose and a glass of orange juice and shown up to our 2 level appartment overlooking the pool. All good except for the weather which is looking a bit winterish so far. We spent today doing our washing (as there are no laundromats here apparently) and then wandering around an old castle which was interesting in that it was not much of a match for the Italian castles we have been visiting. The other problem is a little dog nearby which sounds as if it is being murdered. Rob has gone to investigate but don't suppose we will have much clout here.
So we have a week here now which is a very relaxing thought.

Trevi fountain very early in morning

colosseum

Siena

From top of cathedral in Siena

ATG walk and siena

2010-10-07T01:50:00.000-07:00

Still battling to find internet in Italy but have a few minutes left at internet cafe so will just write a few lines. Rob has gone to buy our bus tickets and not sure what is taking so long - hope he isn't lost somewhere in Siena.
Well, the 3 days of walking have been fantastic. It threatened to rain for the first 2 days but nothing much happened. And then from Monteriggione to Siena we had a beautiful day. Monteriggione is a tiny little hilltop walled village with 65 inhabitants and we were staying high up in an old building with a beautiful view out of a little castle window. It was a really lovely place (much more charming than Colle). The accommodation in Siena isn't that flash but the city is great and the weather is good so we will just enjoy the place. We walked about 6 hours on days 2 and 3 so were quite tired by the end, especially as a lot of it is through slippery clay which gets stuck to your shoes.

San Gimignano in background

Monteriggione

Arriving at Monteriggione gate after 6 hours of walking

Inside Monteriggione

Views on walk

San Gimignano - colle val d'Elsa

2010-10-04T06:13:00.000-07:00

I just realised there is a gap in the blog as I wrote a couple of emails yesterday instead. But we had 2 great days in San Gimignano exploring the city and went for a walk around the outside practising following our instructions from ATG. It was only 2 hours but steep and strenuous - definitely left us feeling like we deserved a nice glass of Italian wine at a spot near the top of the city overlooking just about the whole of Tuscany. We ate well, drank well and rested well and now have just finished 1st day of walking - from San G to Colle. Great day with no rain - really beautiful scenery especially first half. About 4 hours walking and instructions not too difficult to follow. Colle val d'Elsa is much less touristy and the village doesn't seem in quite as good condition. But we haven't had a good look around yet. Ate our lunch when we arrived and then collapsed for a while and showered so ready to head out again now. The next 2 days look a lot tougher and the next village (Montereggione) only has a population of 65!

Rob's comment

It's been a while since my last entry but needed to have a say. Cinque Terre looked exactly as all the tourist brochures showed and is really stunning but just full of tourists. 2 days is all one needs, even when all the trails are open. Enjoyed our day of changing trains to get to San Gimignano - very proud of our efforts of doing it on the cheap ( John you would be proud ). Tucany is just beautiful with soft pastelly colours, sloping vineyards everywhere , amazing buildings ,etc. Still full of tourists ( I think a lot of Catholics ) visiting this amazing old city. Enjoyed today and very pleased to have Jill to keep us on the right track. Looking forward to next few days.

San Gimignano

S G (Different view)

Some Italians at place where we had glass of wine

Cinque Terre

2010-09-30T08:37:00.000-07:00

This feels very pressurised as there is no wifi so am paying per half hour! Anyway, spent yesterday in train from Nice - Monaco - Ventemiglia - Riomaggiore. The first French bit was stunning, although the train was pretty old and noisy. Then for some reason once we hit Ventemiglia lots of really rude noisy Italian children started getting on and also some really smelly guys trying to avoid the ticket controller. Also we spent most of the time in tunnels so couldn't enjoy the scenery any more. Anyway we duly arrived in Riomaggiore in the evening and took the hike up to our room which is fine and even has a balcony. The area is just like in the pictures - the beautiful colours and little villages on the hills and in the bays. But unfortunately it is absolutely PACKED with tourists. Today has been rainy but we walked between Monterosso and Vernazzo which was still lovely even in the rain with the steep, muddy paths and pretty heavy pedestrian traffic. After 2 hours of that we were drenched so stopped for ravioli and beers and coffee and then home for siesta.
Can't seem to do photos from here so will try another time.

Well it is another time now and I have just written another paragraph which the nasty Italian internet lost!! This country is very different from France in lots of ways. To get internet you have to present your passport and then pay through the nose as well. Actually this hotel tells me it is free since I am staying here but it just seems a very different attitude to tourists. Apparently they are very scared of terrorists! But not the French? Anyway, I will have to be brief now as somehow it is not the same writing something for a second time. I am not really sure how to describe our experience in Cinque Terre - it is absolutely beautiful but after 3 nights there we had had enough. The weather was grey and drizzly most of the time which didn't help, but today was lovely so we were planning to walk the paths we hadn't been able to do in the rain. But we soon gathered that they had closed the paths due to bad weather and it didn't look like they were going to open them again. So there were even more tourists milling about everywhere and there is only so much admiring the view that one can do. So we packed up this morning and embarked on another million trains to get to San Gimignano. Our spirits lifted as we got closer as the scenery is stunning and it is nice to be in this sort of countryside again. The hotel is right in the village and is lovely. So we dropped our bags and collapsed outside for a beer and a delicious thing which I think was a foccacia. We have 2 nights here and then start our 4 day walk to Siena. Hope this weather lasts.
I have given up on photos - maybe in Rome??

1st rainy day - looking back to Monterosso

coming in to Vernazza after about 2 hours walking in the rain

Vernazza

last word from bode

2010-09-29T00:26:00.000-07:00

Just a quickie from a "wannabe wilmot sister"....
As the designated driver I managed to achieve two near impossible feats which left the party near speechless ( ok thats a little of the poetic licence but it was very funny)
Driving through the incredibly narrow cycle track like lanes has been challenging to say the least but I was able to wedge the hire car between 2 buildings!! It took much manoeuvering, pulling in the side mirrors and backwards and forwards a few times before we were free.
I am also ashamed to admit that I was overtaken by a bicycle .
The trip has been very good and hats off to Rob for being one of the girls!
Jenny, for the food police, I have a question for you once you see the photos and Doug we are forever in your debt for your kind words!
Love
bode

Nice

2010-09-28T13:07:00.000-07:00

We have only had 2 nights in Nice which has been very short. We left Vence after breakfast and very soon found ourselves on the outskirts of Nice but then things got more difficult. All roads seemed to lead to the airport so that is where we went and found we could just drop our car off there. We had plans of catching a taxi to our hotel but it turned out we were too snoep and opted for the cheaper alternative of bus. It was wonderfully easy as it just drove straight along the Promenade and we jumped off about 2 or 3 hundred metres from the Nice Garden Hotel which has been perfect. We have all been surprised to really like Nice. We went down to the beach and Rob and I went for a swim which was an amazing ordeal. The pebbly beach made getting into the water enormously uncomfortable. But then getting out - I just got the giggles as I had to climb out on all fours up this steep bank and then I got Dinny to throw me some shoes and I collapsed at the top of the bank exhausted. So no more swims although beautiful warm weather. We did a bit of shopping and wandering around the old city and the inevitable eating and drinking, all of which was great.
Tomorrow Dinny sets off at 5am and then the rest of us at more civilised hours.

Nice beach in evening

On promenade

On promenade facing other way

Montfort to the coast

2010-09-26T13:58:00.000-07:00

Well - not so much blogging from Montfort as it turned out, but it was a great week and very different from Aix. Having a car changed things a lot - not as relaxing as just walking but great to see the surrounding countryside and villages and great not to have to negotiate the buses. We popped in at the local Tabac on our last night for a drink which was quite interesting - we didn't really look like locals. Anyway Saturday was my birthday so we started with a delicious omelette (courtesy of Bode) with fresh baguette and coffee. Then we set out on our big drive. The weather was stunning and the drive started off quite pleasantly, through the vineyards and olive groves, and only one wrong turn. Then we hit some amazing gorges and narrow roads. I think it was one of my most scary experiences - I couldn't look out of my window at the amazing scenery and poor Rob was sweating I think trying to keep all 4 wheels on the road while the French drivers came hurtling down on the wrong side of the road and the cyclists had full faith they were quite safe sharing the road with us all. I have a sore shoulder now, I think from trying to hang on to my seat. Anyway, we made it over the top and almost to St Tropez which was supposed to be our first stop for coffee. But after an hour of crawling along in the traffic we gave up about a km out and headed for a little pink cafe on the beach which was great (except for the standing block toilets). Then the drive all along that coast was magnificent. It would have been great to have been cycling along there. We stopped for lunch in St Raphael amongst all the big yachts and I managed to squeeze in another Creme Brulee for my birthday. Then we carried on along the coast to Cannes and then inland to Vence It was a long day for the drivers but spectacular scenery.
Vence is amazing too - we had dinner in a creperie in the the old city and then today went to St Paul de Vence this morning and the Maeght foundation and then to Grasse this afternoon. All wonderful and maybe some more details from the others.
Tomorrow we have to return the car in Nice and then 2 nights there before Dinny leaves for S.A. and Bode for Copenhagen.

Rob with St Tropez coastline in background (sort of)

Pink cafe on beach

52nd birthday lunch at St Raphael

Birthday dinner in Vence

Bode - St Paul de Vence

Lunch St Paul de Vence

Montfort-sur-Argens

2010-09-23T08:42:00.000-07:00

From Dinny - We have seen a lot of Provence today - much more than we intended,due to unexpected road works, difficulty in establishing north and south and people who get carsick when they read maps. But we had a magnificent visit to Les Gorges du Verdon - spectacular scenery and a festive lunch at the lac (apparently Jenni mustn't know that we had pizza). We still have no accommodation for the 2 nights after here so not sure where we will stay. Our routes are unpredictable anyway. Montfort is a great place, our high tech accommodation in contrast to the ancient village and castle.
Jill will put on some photos I hope, mostly of us eating.

Sightseeing at the lake

Aiguines

The River at the bottom of the Gorge

Dinny and Rob overlooking le Lac de Ste Croix

The 4 of us at the Gorge

Rob's last cycling addition

2010-09-20T09:11:00.000-07:00

We have had our last days riding in the Pyrennes. For those thinking of accepting the challenge I can recommend a great place to stay just outside Massat " les Deux Velos " where Mark and Elma will look after you fabulously. Great friendly atmosphere, breakfasts and dinners and expert advise of the many rides. Have conquered two more Cols (d'Agnes and Peguere). On both days the weather was stunning looking over the numerous peaks , some with a little snow showing. d'Agnes was long and reasonably challenging with a very long downward run. Richard and I enjoyed the quick descent racing each other to our lunchspot " Seix" to meet Celia. Todays col "Peguere" was unbelievably hard. I was determined not to get off my bike - I was in my bottom gear grinding up at 6kmh for over 3.5 kilometers. I will add this to my " Bucket List " as I don't think I will be repeating the experience. Cycled down to Foix for an enjoyable lunch under the Castle before heading to our last night with Di and Rob Garnett ( much appreciated).

I don't know exactly how many kilometers we have ridden but it must be near 1000km by now. I would recommend this to everyone vaguely interested in cycling but suggest you do a little training beforehand. Thanks Richard for making this all happen. Richard ours and Celia and Jills company over the duration has been awesome. Now for the next stage of our journey - I catch a train tomorrow to meet up with Jill in Monforte.

Les Deux Velos outside Massat

Top of col (Peguere) with Mark and Bas from Les Deux Velos

From top of Peguere

Same

Aix to Montfort

2010-09-20T07:18:00.000-07:00

We had to leave our house in Aix which is always sad. So we started the day with the obligatory pastries - last chance for the visit to Bechard. Then there was the cleaning and packing and then we were collected by a very speedy but friendly taxi driver to take us to our car at the TGV station. We soon discovered that our trip was only about an hour at most from Aix. But then we realised that we were having none of that as we were travelling in completely the opposite direction - Bode was handling the wrong side of the road but I think the sun coming from the South was too much for us. Anyway, we found a great little place in Trets for a Tapas lunch with Spanish beers. We were their only guests so they presented us with some dreadfully strong liqueur afterwards which kept us going to Montfort.

This is a tiny little charming village on the side of a hill with one of everything. The house is on 3 levels (one bedroom on each) and a nice sunny spot outside the kitchen where we sit if we can fit anything more into our tummies. My bedroom is on the top floor overlooking the castle wall. We have been on a couple of exploratory drives through some of the other villages and find ourselves quite often in Cotignac which is beautiful. We had an emergency breakfast there this morning when we found the boulanger doesn't open on a Monday in Montfort. In fact most of France appears not to open on a Monday. Bode braved the little narrow winding roads through Entrecasteux and Aups and some stunning scenery. We even managed quite a long walk last night, through vineyards and olive groves, picking figs and berries on the way, so rewarded ourselves with a dinner at the local restaurant called Marmite

our house in Montfort

Breakfast in Cotignac

Breakfast in cotignac

walking in the coutryside above Montfort sur Argens

Cotignac shop window

The rocks and caves behind Cotignac where the Troglodytes used to live apparently

Richards Addition

2010-09-18T04:21:00.000-07:00

I don't want this Aussie blog to be taken over by a south african but it seems to have some SA readers who keep asking questions, like Chris who sent an sms at 11pm last night wanting to know why nobody was going for the pink jersey. Well I know you are colour blind but even so you should know there is no pink jersey in the tour de France. Or perhaps your geography is at fault, there is a maglia rosa in the Giro.
Anyway here is my version of the last few days.
After 4 rest days Celia lead the peloton out of Pierrefitte at 27kmh and we roared into Lourdes where we blogged and then had to climb the first of the hills on our journey east along the foothills of the pyrenees. Our first town was Bagneres de Bigorre but it was only lunch time so we decided to continue only to be immediately confronted with the 2nd hill of the day. These hills are not so long but are still hard work with full panniers. This was followed by a lovely long descent and we flew along to the base of a 3rd climb where there was a small auberge. Rob went in to ask directions to the next town (Lannemezan),and I had to work hard to persuade him that cold beer and wine and a bed in a beautiful country setting was better than attacking another big climb just then. It was awonderful place (30euros a room Alec) and Rob met a very nice New Zealander from Rotorua to whom he chatted for a long time.
Next morning C set off ahead of us because she struggles on the hills. When we eventually caught up with her at the top I could see from her face it was going to be a difficult day for me. I suggested she change into a lower gear only to be told abruptly that she was already in her lowest gear. I then noticed she had done the whole climb in her middle chain ring. She eventually saw the funny side of it but had hurt her knee in the process. The rest of the day was wonderful undulating cycling with lovely scenery to Salies du Salat. Then the next day all along the river to this place near Massat.

Celia making it to the top

Friday in Aix

2010-09-17T13:21:00.000-07:00

Today was our last day here and the only slightly miserable, grey day. We seem to have spent a lot of our time trying to organise some outings out of Aix which we have managed on two occasions. The first was to Puylubiere which came about when we told the tourist chap that the tours were too expensive. He was very pleased to offer us this option for only one euro. It sounded perfect but it was a really weird experience. It was hot and dry and very closed over lunch time so we wandered around and admired Mont Sainte Victoire , and then settled down on a bench to wait for our return bus. We could all see quite a marked similarity to Graaff Reinett. We were very pleased to arrive back in Aix which has been lovely. I think we did a bit more shopping (some bits of material for my quilt) and had a drink on the Cours Mirabeau, then Bode cooked delicious gnocci for dinner. The night before we went to a great little place called the Bistro Latin where we ate duck again and creme brulee.

Puylubiere with a bit of the mountain behind

Today we were out all day as we caught the bus to Arles and St Remy. Arles was pretty ordinary and I thought Dinny was going to throw up when she tasted her coffee. But St Remy was a beautiful village. We took heaps of photos but they seem to be mostly of the quaint streets and gorgeous colours of provence - mainly walls and shutters - so maybe I won't include all those. John would have loved the Roman ruins in Arles where they still hold the bull fights.

Bode and Dinny in Arles with Rhone in background (where van Gogh painted Starry Night apparently)

Arles

One of the many photos of shutters in St Remy

Poor Rob had a bad day worrying about his Dad who is in hospital with an infection. Hope all is going well there.

Dinny and Bode don't look interested in having turns tonight so I had better just go and pack my bag and get ready for the drive to Montfort tomorrow. (I think it is very close but we are not sure what we will find when we get there.)

Robs Addition

2010-09-17T11:34:00.000-07:00

Well, we are 3 days further into our adventure. The weather has taken a turn for the worse with heavy cloud and constant scottish mist , however the riding experience is just great. It gives one another prospective of life in country France with all the soft colours, massive amounts of running water , quiet streets , old buildings , narrow lane ways in farming communities. I didn't appreciate how beautiful the French countryside is !

We have stayed in some very quaint hotels , where the food has been pleasantly good , though sometimes served up in what looks like the dogs bowl. The beds , bathrooms and pillows all vary greatly and there isn't a huge amount of privacy with paper thin walls. They all have power saving lights , so the passageways are often pitch dark. I managed to set off the Fire Alarm one evening whilst trying to find light switch. Not the best way to endear yourself to French owners. No complaints - all parts of the experience. My understanding of the French language and my ability to speak French amounts to a very fat zero.

We never did find out what this place was called

Richard and Celia in the mist (not gorillas)

We have a couple of more Cols to climb before Monday and I think the weather will clear , so looking forward to being rewarded with spectacular views over the Pyrennes.

To Dad back in Tauranga New Zealand , I'm thinking of your always and I hope you are feeling better and will be back at Pillans Rd soon. You are made of tough stuff and a little old infection is not going to get the better of you. Love you - Rob , Jill, Catherine and John

Waiting for Godot

2010-09-15T13:23:00.000-07:00

Spot the pastries!

Pyrenees Addition

2010-09-15T02:14:00.000-07:00

Richard
Sat 11th Sept
Jill left today but we are expected to continue the blog but have not found internet yet. Celia and I rode up to Pierrefitte today and I found the best hotel ever , elia hated it instantly , we had the biggest room yet with one window overlooking the noisy river that drowned out all unpleasant noises like traffic and C telling me to pack away my clothes. I spent hours lying on one of the 3 beds and even C admitted she had not seen me look as peaceful since leaving the farm . But the building was very old and not too clean and hotel man ( barman , receptionist ,waiter and everything else) was swarthy and only guardedly friendly , think he is a Basque seperatist. Best of all was the price E56 DBB for 2 people. Alec would have been proud of me. Things started to deteriorate when we went down for supper , when I asked for some ice for C's wine , hotel man glared and said what for. I bravely stood my ground and he reluctantly went off and came back with two iceblocks in his hand. The food was plentiful but C said was uneatable. next morning C wouldn't come down for breakfast , so I went down alone and found all the quest milling around in confusion , hotel man hadn't arrived. It was a really strange scene and I went back to fetch C so she could see real French people acting with no concern for tourist. by 9.30 no one had arrived so we went out of a side door to another hotel for coffee , I had to concide defeat and booked 2 rooms there. We found out hotelman was drunk the night before. This place is very clean and friendly and has loud traffic.
12th Sept
The next part is mainly for Alec who asked some technical questions of a competitive nature like which of us is in yellow and who is in the polka dot. Well until Jill left Rob was playing the part super domestique so it was difficult to tell. But on his return from Foix without Jill he rode an individual Time Trail from Lourdes to Pierrefitte with Panniers at 33 kmh which puts him fairly in yellow and he is far to strong to challenge?
13th Sept
However after riding to Col d'Aubisque I think I might have the Polka Dot in the bag except that Rob has a cunning plan to use C's bike on the Tourmalet tomorrow. When we set off up the Aubisque I hoped Rob would make the beginners mistake of starting too fast but he stayed with me for the first km before impatience got the better of him and he started pulling ahead. I thought I wouldn't see him again , but half way up he came into view and soon I was sitting on his wheel. Afterwards I pulled away to the top of the col. It is difficult for a first timer to imagine the length of these climbs. He also the excuse of having a heavy bike with no suitable gear for 8.5 % gradiant. The weather was beautiful and so was the scenery. I hope Rob's photography does it justice. Rob is a demon descender and sitting on his wheel on the descent reminded me of following down a steep ski run. A brillant day cycling.
14th Sept
I have talked Rob out of doing the Tourmalet and going to Gavarnie instead. This kills two birds with one stone. There are no more out of catorgary climbs on the route , so he cannot get enough points to get the Polka Dot jersey off my shoulders and secondly I've always wanted to vist Gavarnie after reading so much about it. It was everything I expected. Reminded me of Monte aux Sources in the Drakensberg. I will leave Rob to add his bit.

Robs comment

The last few days have been fantastic , the weather , scenery and company have all been perfect. My first Col was an unforgetable experience. The constant uphill climbs and screaming leg muscles was over shadowed by the beauty and sense of achievement of making the top. I started off extremely strongly and pushed well ahead of Richard , only to look behind to find him silently setting of my back wheel. I desparately needed an extra gear ( a fact that will be rectified next trip ). The Sat morning boys would love this experience and maybe we should look at substituting Rottnest for France , but we definitely need to find some hills to practice on. Will load photos next week when I catch up with Jill. We need to push on now Panniers ladden to our next stop Bagneres de Gorre. Eat your hearts out as this is the way to live life.

Banana break up the Gavarnie

End of climb, at Gavarnie

Gavarnie

Richard with polka dot bike at top of l'Aubisque

Top of l'Aubisque

3 girls in Aix

2010-09-14T06:03:00.000-07:00

Bode in front of Patisserie (petit dejeuner)

Aix is gorgeous and very exciting to meet Jill at the train station - full of energy and exciting stories! Mostly we just eat fantastic pastries and vegies from the market but we do go out for little excursions between feasting. Cezanne's studio an amazing experience for me (Dinny) and Bode, and Jill very open to acquiring the taste.

From Bode -Most amazing festival of associations on sunday, loads of people dancing beautifully in the cours mirabeau and having a good time as only the aixois can do, we must remember to be less precious and self-conscious! Petit dejeneur is so so good...one cant get over the quality of this food!

Monacos and olives at Les Deux Garcons, Cours Mirabeau

our garden in Aix

Dinny and Bode at l'Atelier de Cezanne

Bode outside studio

Aix en Provence

2010-09-12T23:35:00.000-07:00

A lot of time in trains really since last entry. We had to catch the 6.30am train from Lourdes to Toulouse and Richard was there to say good bye! Then there was coffee and pastries in Toulouse before getting on the train to Pamiers where we were met by Dianne and Robin and more coffee. They live up in the mountains between Pamiers and Foix which is absolutely stunning. After a wonderful lunch of homemade tomato tart and figs from their tree we drove way up into the Pyrenees and went for a beautiful long walk. It was more like being in Switzerland with the cows and horses wearing their big bells. The big negative there is the steep windy roads and the car sickness, but that improved a lot once I pushed Dianne and Rob into the back. Then there were drinks and dinner on the terrace - I recommend this hotel - and then breakfast all laid on before having to head back to Pamiers for more trains. Rob back to Lourdes and me to Marseilles - Aix en Provence. That was all pretty uneventful (I forgot to mention the wonderful pack lunch from Dianne of farm egg sandwiches and cherry tomoatoes and figs). Not sure how the rest of the train felt about the egg.

So now Rob will try and keep up the cycling news from his iphone and I am here with Dinny and Bode in a little flat in the centre of Aix. I will see if I can get them to add their bits to the blog - it is fun to be here with them but quite a culture shock for me. We walked around the corner to the main street which was full of all the different local societies doing their stuff, the most entertaining of which was the dancing - all these people just dancing in the street and a few kids joining in on the edges and a few others zooming through on their bikes. It was a really great atmosphere. Then we came back for our beers and vegetables and some more talking and huge bath and bed. Don't think Rob is living in the same luxury in Pierrenefitte (Celia said something about checking for bugs and then Richard said the owner was too drunk to get the breakfast the next day).

Photos and Bode and Dinny's turn later in the day. I think I am on duty to go and buy the pastries this morning.

Later - delicious pastries and walk around Aix en provence but Monday not much open. But will just add a few photos before we set off to see l'atelier do Cezanne.

View from hotel I think.

Richard writing blog

Hotel in Lourdes

Robin and Dianne at prat d' something, overlooking Foix

Looking over towards Andorra

Lourdes

2010-09-10T11:20:00.000-07:00

On railway bridge

Just on side of road

Cycling from Lourdes to Pierrenefitte

From Richard -
On second thoughts yesterdays ride wasn't so easy but Rob was ordering R200 bottles of wine at the time on top of our normal bar bill and my brain was in shock at the time. I can always tell the distance travelled by Celia's behaviour. At 70km she begins with the odd swear word, at 80km she goes on about the selfishness of people with cartilage in both knees at 90km she starts awful threats to anyone in the general vicinity if a hotel doesn't appear round the next bend. I think I can safely say that,what with the head wind and slight incline, we covered the equivalent of 100km.

From Jill -
Yes it was tough and I am pleased Richard has conceded. We had all written our words of wisdom when the internet switched itself off so now we are writing for a second time. Anyway today was perfect again. It has been warm and sunny and beautiful and we have covered a respectable 40 odd km. (last time I said 45 but I was laughed at) We had 5 km to ride form Ades to Lourdes which was along a highway with trucks flying by but we made it and organised our train trips and had coffee and pastries and then booked into a very smart hotel. Dinner has arrived so I will post this and finish later.

OK it is later now so I will set the earlier scene. We arrived in Lourdes - .. then after coffee and pastries we left our paniers at the hotel and cycled along the cycle track up the valley to Pierrenefitte (there is more to that name but only Richard seems to know) where Richard and Rob and Celia will stay after I leave and Richard and Rob will do their cols - the Tourmalet and L'Aubisque. There has been much discussion about whether this is going to be competitive or not. Richard says not but he is just interested to see how fast Rob will go. I think Rob will be happy to enter into any little competitions that are available. So back to our ride - we stopped for a wonderful lunch of homemade bread and ham and cheese, enjoying the stunning views of the Pyrenees and then home again - for me the last ride of this trip. Tomorrow Rob and I will spend the night with Robin and Dianne just outside Foix and then I will meet Dinny and Bode in Aix en Provence.
It is now much later but we had a lovely evening with drinks outside in the late evening sun and then a respectable dinner of pork or Confit de Canard (standard meal in these parts). And I managed my 3rd or 4th Creme Brulee - Yum.
Let's see if I can manage some photos now.

Rob relaxing

There is a fly fisherman somewhere in the distance

Hotel in Lourdes

Ades (Lourdes)

2010-09-09T09:27:00.000-07:00

This will be a short entry - not the best day cycling. It was grey and tough - the water in the gutter was definitely flowing fast in the opposite direction so it was a steady incline. Rob even had to give me a push up a couple of the hills. Richard says glibly over drinks tonight that he didn't find it a hard day! And the head wind! I am sure I could think of lots of other things, like the fact that we covered over 70km on a little French breakfast and a coffee and a mars bar and a few crackers for lunch. Anyway, here we are just about in the pyrenees - we can see them and they look beautiful but I am very happy that I am heading off to Aix en Provence and won't have to do the cols. Maybe I can hand this around as we are sitting here with our drinks waiting for them to serve dinner.

From Rob - My arse is feeling a little raw but I think the main reason today was tough is we didn't eat well last night. I had a small bottle of red wine and a packet of Lays chips , not enough to keep the engine going for 70 odd k's - Jill had no excuse as she only had a coke ( no alcohol ). However this is absolutely a must ( everyone needs to add this experience to their Bucket List ). Looking forward to the weather clearing and the Pyrenees opening in front of us. It's amazing when you have ridden all day and the standard of accommodation is totally irrelevant. Tonights shower was just fantastic.

Now Richard -

Seven hours to do seventy km and people are whining about the tough day. Chris and Alec need to come along next time and show them what cycle touring is all about. Lets just hope there is a next time.

Richard's paragraph

2010-09-08T23:25:00.000-07:00

Our mini tour de france is proceeding at great pace. The girls (middle aged women actually) are getting fitter. Jill passed the 70 km mark still smiling yesterday. This might have something to do with the free wine at lunch which had her sloshing wine or water indiscriminately into her glass. Celia on the other hand slowly works her way to the front when there are 3km to go and sets such a pace that large gaps open up in the peloton. I think Rob must be itching to also come to the front and show what he can do but is still playing the good husband .Jill leaves us soon and then I am going to be in trouble. Luckily we are heading into the mountains and since Celia has no cartilage in her right knee she can't climb. It is no disgrace to be left behind by someone with international sportsmen in their family.
A final word on the pile up on the canal. This is not the first time that Jill has attacked children in Europe. In Lech she set off down the tobbogan run with loud cries of achtung in pursuit of 2 small boys who fled screaming in panic but they had no chance and were scooped up in an avalanche of tobogans and deposited at the feet of their flabbergasted parents.

Robs entry from iphone

2010-09-08T11:48:00.000-07:00

In a couple of days I may need to do entries from my iphone (scary ) so I'm just doing this to see if it works.

cazaubon - marciac

2010-09-08T11:29:00.000-07:00

Overlooking coutryside along the way

Chateau de Begue - where we stayed in Cazaubon

That was a great day of cycling! About 70km through beautiful French farmland, mainly corn, sunflowers, cattle, geese and all the farm smells mixed with a bit of rain and a lot of lavender. Lots of little villages with coffee and pains chocolat and not too many gruelling hills. We stopped in Plaisance (Kiwi Haka) for a 3 course lunch which we found included 2 caraffes of wine and the usual friendly service with no English. So we are never all that sure what we are going to get. There was an exception to the friendly service in Cazaubon when we tried to have dinner at the local chateau where we could see masses of tables set beautifully out on the country verandah (and no guests in sight),but the man in the penguin suit (looking very like Bazil Fawlty) told us he was sorry - no dinner for us as they had "Pas de produits"!! Since that was the only restaurant in town it left us a bit sad. But we found some pizzas at the local supermarket.

Anyway, back to today - we took all these little unmarked back roads, which almost caused a few problems. Firstly Celia found herself a couple of km down the wrong road without anyone following. Richard managed to catch her and we re-grouped, only to create another pile-up when Rob and Richard stopped to study the map again and Celia rode straight into them. Having your feet stuck in your pedals can be dangerous.

Since Rob has found he can't get the US Open he may add a bit.

From Rob -

What a great day , cycling into the unknown is remarkably relaxing. Saw the most beautiful castle flying a flag of some sort in isolated place. Could imagine German tanks rolling down some of these narrow streets during the second world war. Some of the looks we get from the locals are amusing but most are very friendly and will wave and greet you with a warm bonjour. Feeling a little guilty that I have not been in touch with office in Perth but had positive email from Esme that all is good so long may that last.

Pool overlooking countryside at chateau de begue in Cazaubon

(these photos have a mind of their own - I never know where they are going to enter themselves.)

Cazaubon (6th/7th Sept)

2010-09-07T02:43:00.000-07:00

No photos today - yesterday's ride was too exhausting to stop for photos and today it is pouring with rain. Nerac was fantastic and I would have liked to stay another night but that was not the program. We headed off at about 9.30am after a great breakfast, but a bit apprehensive as there was a light drizzle. But the weather turned out fine, it was just the hills! We apparently took the flat way! We managed to squeeze a cup of coffee and a pastry out of a little cafe along the way and covered about 50km of hills before Celia had a flat tire in Gabarret. I was hoping that would mean we could stop there. But it was fixed in no time and we climbed the longest hill of all into Cazaubon and found this amazing place overlooking the countryside (Richard and Celia stayed here last time). Rob and Richard went and bought beers and cheese and baguettes which we took out to the huge pool. That all made me feel a lot better. And today luckily is a rest day.

Chatted to Catherine last night and John this morning on skype which was fun. John asked when we were due to leave Joburg! Catherine seemed a little more interested.

From Rob - Quick note - been a lazy morning lying in bed reading book and listening to the rain outside. Next 2 days are also looking wet but will need to push on regardless. Nice being able to give the backside a rest. Unfortunately we are not out of the hills yet ( good practice for the cols ahead ).

Richard's breakfast blog from Nerac

2010-09-06T00:09:00.000-07:00

(This photo arrived in wrong place again - it is dinner on river in Nerac)
What a lot of details have been left out. For instance we have had a bit of head winds so we send our big diesel engine to the front. This increases the speed from 17 km/ph (my speed) to 25 km/ph.This in turn causes much whining from the back markers, but we reach our destination by lunch time. The other omission was Jill's taking out of a 4 year old child causing a 3 bike pile up. I ended up on top of the pile and saw none of the causes so will let Jill explain.

From Jill - well the 4 year old chose to wander over to the wrong side of the road and for some reason didn't respond to "watch out, careful!" So I slammed on breaks and didn't take him out. But Celia saw what was happening so slammed on breaks behind me and Richard saw nothing so took Celia, me and the 4 year old out. The only real damage seemed to be my panier, so I now only have one. Luckily I have almost no luggage.

Anyway, bit rainy today it looks but we are off anyway over the hills I think.

Had dinner under umbrellas bottom left.

From Rob in Nerac

2010-09-05T07:27:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone, my first attempt at blogging. 3 days in and having a fantastic time. Mainly flat riding so far following canals. By backside is getting use to a different seat and our hired bikes are proving to handle the terrain excellently. I was a little unsure what to think as the bikes have more maintain bikes tyres and different gears than my Perth bike , but though not fast, is very comfortable and when the hills arrive we have a lot of options. The Sat morning boys would love this type of trip with plenty of coffee / beers breaks to keep everyone accommodated. My french is pitiful and I'm somewhat concerned about Jill abandoning us next Sat leaving Richard ,Celia and me to fend for ourselves. Looking forward to a beer this evening down by the riverbank.
Thanks to everyone sending emails we are definitely receiving them but for some reason cannot reply. Jill has tried writing messages on skype for those she has addresses for !

This little garden attracted us to Valence

Grisolles - Valence - Nerac

2010-09-05T06:58:00.000-07:00

Just a few words from me and some photos, then maybe a little blog a la Rob or a la Richard or Celia. We didn't quite make the 90 km. But had a great 60km ride from Grisolles to Valence d'Argens. We were just planning to stop for a late lunch but then that turned into a couple of beers and a pizza and some good Aussie rugby! And then today we did another about 60km (details to follow) and I am now sitting in the Henry IV Hotel (2star) which is marvellous. Rob is doing the washing so will be able to write in a minute.

So I will add a few photos in the meanwhile.

Ok, I have now put in one photo 3 times and tried to delete 2 of them and then who knows where I went. So I will just sign out and hand over to Rob.

Leaving Grisolles

Best coffee and crepes in Castelsarrasin (and maps)

The Canal crossing the Garonne River

First Day in France

2010-09-03T13:09:00.000-07:00

Well we are now safely in Grisolles but it has been a pretty long day. We left Ssandton on the Gautrain which was great except for the fact that a few things like lifts and escallators were only programmed to work while the World Cup was on.Then the long day started with a true South African queueing experience for the Air France Airbus 380 Double Decker. After an hour and a half of pushing Richard and Celia's bikes and all our luggage through the miles of queues we eventually got through but the flight was delayed which meant we missed our connection in Paris and things went from bad to worse. The people from velomondo delivering our bikes had 3 hours to kill, waiting for our re-scheduled flight, which they chose to spend at Ikea! But still managed to be in good moods when they met us. And even after we had managed to destroy one tire (pumping it up) and then realising we had left all Richard and Celia's medicine kit in their van, they were still cheerful when they were called back to the airport after they were an hour out of Toulouse. And the 4 of us were in fair spirits. Then we had to brave the highways of France to get out of the airport!! I can only say these French motorists are amazing. A few hooted at us when we found ourselves on a freeway traveling at about 10km per hour, but otherwise they gave us a wide berth, stopping if they had to wait till it was safe. It was amazing to just be cycling along here in France. I am a bit disappointed to find I only have about 6 words left in my French vocabulary but it seemed to be enough to ascertain there was no hotel in Grenade sur Garonne. But they were prepared to fill up our water bottles to get us through to Grisolles, about 10 km further on. It was still hot when we arrived here at about 7pm (I think it got to about 30) so we sat out on the verandah and had a couple of beers - very civilised. Then delicious dinner and end of day one in France. I am a bit apprehensive about tomorrow as I think Richard and Celia are planning to get to Argens which is 90 km away! But it looks like I am connected to the internet here which is a miracle. I wonder if all the places we visit will have wi-fi. Haven't managed to be able to send messages yet though as this laptop is still having trouble sending although it can receive, and the French sim we bought is a dud so far. But we are receiving emails and texts fine.
I haven't looked at photos yet so will add some tomorrow if I get a chance.

Waiting for medicine at Toulouse Airport

Dinner at Hotel

Johannesburg

2010-08-31T00:22:00.000-07:00

Well this is my second big challenge since leaving Perth. The first was to work out why John had set up my computer so I could only email Catherine! Think that is fixed now so I have moved on to trying to write on a blog (with some help from Christo). By the way, Christo, is it possible to change the apostrophe in the title! Ask your Mum.

No bikes yet - just beautiful spring weather in Joburg, staying with Margaret and Campbell. Done a bit of tennis and walking but mostly eating and drinking - lunch at the Country Club with James and Christine and Andrew and Twylla. Will try and include some photos but that could be a bit beyond me. Then last night Rob and I played tennis against Campbell and CJ which was fun except there was quite a lot of ball tampering by the South Africans. Then we had an excellent dinner at home with Margaret, Campbell, CJ and Lyn.

So our next challenge (once we have mastered this) will be to reduce our luggage to a manageable amount for our 2 months in Europe. We managed to get charged for excess baggage on our way here which is pretty stupid I suppose.

Andrew and Twylla

Rob, Christine and James

Margaret and Campbell (?)

Campbell and Rob after a few bottles of South African Red